ASVOFF // A Shaded View On Fashion Film, 2009

published in: Fashion, Exhibitions By Costas Voyatzis, 11 October 2009

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portrait of Diane Pernet by Miguel Villalobos
ASVOFF logo created by Yoann Lemoine

International Fashion, Style & Beauty Film Festival

On October 8th, the last day of Paris Fashion Week, an international jury headed by designer Rick Owens presented awards to the best fashion films in several categories, for The 2009 Edition of International Fashion Icon Diane Pernet’s « A SHADED VIEW ON FASHION FILM » (ASVOFF) in Centre Pombidou/Paris.  The second edition of the first annual film festival dedicated to Fashion, Style and Beauty, held over 3 days at the Passage du Désir/BETC before Paris Fashion Week welcomed over 1200 visitors for a short film competition, documentary screenings, installations and a live concert.  This edition, premiered at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, included a curated program and featured film premieres by Erwin Olaf, Róisín Murphy, Fumiko Imano, Benjamin Serroussi, Mattias Montero and Igor Zimmerman; as well as films by/with Steven Klein, Chloe Sevigny, Kim Gordon, Chris Cunningham, Ali Madhavi, Mr. Pearl, Johan Renck, Undercover - Jun Takahashi, Thom Browne, Jenny Lewis and Yelle.

«A Shaded View On Fashion Film» shakes up the old rules of fashion by putting the focus on the moving image, in an industry long dominated by the “still” photographic medium. Built around a program of short films in competition made by today’s fashion protagonists, — designers, stylists, photographers, artistic directors — it also features installations, documentaries and feature-length films where fashion plays a major role.  Since its premiere in September 2008 at the Jeu de Paume National Gallery, the program of short films has travelled to museums and institutions like the Guggenheim Bilbao, Cinema Rise X in Tokyo, the Chelsea Arts Club in London; fashion events such as AltaRoma in Rome and many others around the world - Seoul, Riga and Mexico City to name just a few; and screenings at festivals like Hyères, Festival 9 in Vienna and the Arnhem Biennale.  Last year’s award recipients included photographer Camille Vivier and designer Jeremy Scott.

(OUT OF COMPETITION) Film still from “Rick Owens Portrait,” by Nick Knight, 2009
Courtesy of
STYLIST: Panos Yapanis/ CLOTHES: Rick Owens A/W 2009 Menswear

 This year’s jury for the film competition included: designer Rick Owens, photographer Nan Goldin, actress and director Maria de Medeiros, curator and journalist Eric Troncy, journalist Laurent Goumarre, ad man Eric Tong Cuong and producer Hélène Ségol.

(nominee in FASHION FILM / REFLECTIONS category) Pursuit by Suzie Q & Leo Siboni


International fashion icon Diane Pernet was one of New York’s “it” designers in the 1980’s, before moving to Paris and reinventing herself as a journalist (Joyce,, Vogue. fr, Dutch...) as well as a prolific filmmaker. In addition to being Co-Editor-in-Chief for Zoo Magazine, Diane Pernet is also a bit of a web pioneer – mostly as the face and brains behind, the internationally acclaimed blog she launched in 2005 - but also through her former role as consultant for, the premiere social networking site for the fashion community, which she helped launch. She is regularly solicited to curate and consult for numerous fashion and photography festivals, and also acts as a talent scout for the Festival de Hyères and the Milan White Club. In 2006, she co-founded the traveling film festival “You Wear It Well” before launching "A Shaded View On Fashion Film" on her own in 2008. A film-maker by training, and a fashion designer for her own brand for 13 years as well as a costume designer for cinema for several years, Pernet has made many fashion films, and has also been captured on the other side of the camera, through cameo appearances in Robert Altman’s film, Pret-a-Porter and in Roman Polanski’s The Ninth Gate.



HERR RODEBJER Pt I by Mattias Montero
DESIGNER: Rodebjer
STORY: Our hero is a man travelling through landscapes that we have in front of our eyes every day but don’t really see. He moves in the shadows and the empty spaces in this parallel world of his own. Mumbling, humming and screaming he wonders around, He walks on the empty dark streets as the only living soul alive…or is he…?
5 min / 2009 / Sweden / PROD: ID4L Film AB / MUSIC: Martin Lundquist + Juha Mulari / DP: Marcus Ohlsson / STYLIST: Rebeca Palmer + Ellen af geijerstam / HAIR: Oliver Andersson / MAKE-UP: Andre Cueto Saavedra


HLH: Autumn Winter 2509 BC by Claire Kurylowski & Jason Bradbury
DESIGNER: Harald Lunde Helgesen
STORY: The theme ‘traversing boundaries’ formed the basis of our approach. Boundaries are crossed in a corporeal way – colour, form and texture - in the garments, but also in their connotations. Nuances suggest archaeological/military functionality. However, more prominently, the designs have an aesthetic drive away from these strict regimes. The linear, divided form of the black and white ‘measuring stick’ was used in the film as a motif of this act of traversing. The placement of the clothing within the chosen landscapes also characterise the interweaving sensibilities. Scale and divisions of the frame/screen were amalgamated to extend this effect.

JURY PRIZE "REFLECTION" // fashion film made independently from a brand/designer
FICTION NOIR by Steven Klein
Starring Lara Stone.
STORY: ‘FICTION NOIR the film by Steven Klein starts immediately with the aftermath of a disaster. A young beautiful couple bloodied in what may have been a car accident,or something worse, perhaps a supernatural mishap. The film continues at that point its descent into a series of nocturnal emissions of the mysterious unconscious. The Law and Logic of Society is represented in the form of a cop, and this figure is undermined and mocked by the Femme Fatale of the piece. She is the dark void, the mystery of existence, seductive and yet feared. Masculine order and will is negated by her in FICTION NOIR. Indeed even her tenderness is equated with violence; a blood sacrifice of a young boy, seemingly underage: thelamb to slaughter. There are no happy endings in FICTION NOIR nor resolutions. One senses the men are forever trapped in the Web of the Feminine. In its own way, it is the parable ofLilith. One translation of the name Lilith is “female night being demon”. Filmmaker Steven Kelin lends a modern interpretation to the femme fatale of yesterday’s film noir thus creating a new fiction for us to dream by.
01:41 / 2008/ USA / PROD: West Kill Studio / CAST: Lara Stone

JURY PRIZE "COMMUNICATION" // fashion film made in collaboration with a designer/brand
GARETH PUGH AW09 by Ruth Hogben
DESIGNER: Gareth Pugh
5:00 / 2009 / UK / EDIT: Ruth Hogben / STYLING: Katie Shillingford / SET DESIGN: Simon Costin / MODEL: Natasa Vojnovic / HAIR: Martin Cullen / MAKEUP: Alex Box / NAIL TECHNICIAN: Sophy Robson / SOUNDTRACK: Matthew Stone

1 min. / 2009 / UK / PROD: RSA FILMS

GRAND PRIX SAMSUNG FOR NEW TALENT // Samsung awarded its 3000 Euros young talent in fashion film award to US director Georgie Greville
I WANNA BE YOUR DOG by Georgie Greville
MUSIC: Geremy Jasper & Chris Ruggiero
A remake of the seminal punk song “I Wanna Be Your Dog” by Iggy Pop and The Stooges involving a subverted take on the casting process, created with diegetic sound.



The evening also included the screening of “Dusk” with director Erwin Olaf, Undercover’s “GILApple” animated film, Inez Van Laamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin’s “Untitled” film for Yves Saint Laurent starring Michael Pitt, and the premiere of Antoine Asseraf & Diane Pernet’s “Dangerous” film about singer and fashion icon Roísín Murphy.

(nominee in FASHION FILM / COMMUNICATION category) "L.A. Punx" by Eric Nehr for Thomas Engel Ha

(OUT OF COMPETITION) LA VITESSE ET LA PIERRE by Igor Zimmermann, Frode Fjerdingstad, Marcus Palmqvist

(OUT OF COMPETITION) Dangerous by Antoine Asseraf & Diane Pernet // Photo René Habermacher



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