The ongoing dialogue between Pal Zileri and its customers is one involving a great amount of respect for the Italian brand’s heritage and its ties with its home in Veneto, Italy, and the modern, international vision that has become part of its daily DNA.
As the soundtrack’s beat began to play for the start of the FW16 show in Milan last month, the audience was swept up in this delicious dialogue to become an integral part of its continuation.
Opening with deep blues, silvery grays and inky blacks, to be followed by earthy rusty browns and olive greens, the show highlighted textural, mismatched layers that played with volumes. Combining the best of high-end sportswear and athleisure with impeccable tailoring, the nuances of day and night dressing were melded together in the creations that made their way down the runway which saw artfully tapered or pleated and relaxed light wool pants, shimmering lurex shirt collars peeking out from under crisp tailoring, 3D effect patterned sweaters paired with bonded leather biker jackets and astrakhan touches or geometrically quilted details-inspired by artist Josef Albers’ square studies-on wool coats. The coolly covetable lineup was also underscored by impeccably thought out accessories: burgundy/navy wool skull caps, thick-soled black ankle boots, sleek totes and back-packs in green or brown calfskin, all hinting at the sartorial destinations to which these outfits have been designed to be worn-from the office to the great, urban outdoors.
One can easily imagine the brand’s intrepid, international clientele embracing this collection’s pieces and wearing them on a daily basis. Mauro Ravizza Krieger (creative director at Pal Zileri) and his belief that “The Pal Zileri man is a thinker, a doer and a maker” runs through the FW16 collection which was obviously created with the specific intention of giving this multidimensional, dynamic man a way in which to visually express himself while, at the same time, testing his own sensibilities and self-interpretations.
Also reflecting the metamorphosis of the brand itself (since Ravizza Krieger joined the company in 2014, Pal Zileri has been transformed from the inside out), the concept of a new DNA, christened “Avant-Craft” born out of the synthesis of the brand’s traditional, age-old craftsmanship and innovative creativity is evident everywhere. Nowhere is this more obvious than in the brand’s relationship with modern art, as seen from the Bauhaus inspirations seen in the show through to the growing collection of contemporary artists’ work exhibited in the redesigned Pal Zileri flagship stores worldwide.
The entire FW16 show - from the rolling lights which cut through the centre of the runway, to every one of the meticulously, hand sewn stitches on the garments - gave guests a front row seat from which they were able to witness the expert encapsulation of the brand’s core philosophies and aesthetics paying homage to its past while at the same time charging purposefully forward into the future.
The full Pal Zileri fashion show, FW16, Milan, January 2016.