Guest Contribution by Doya Karolini
It does not happen all too often, yet, every now and then comes a man along who can catch you by surprise that he understands ones needs, as well as aesthetics. One of these rare men is definitely Olivier Borde, who lives, works and practices magic by drawing collections you simply must feel, touch, and ultimately owe in Paris where he also improved his craft with Charles Anastase, amongst others.
His first [Garde-Robe] A/W 2008 collection was unveiled at the International Festival d’Hyeres in April 2008 and was said to be “reinventing the classics of male fashion” in an “artistic and poetic tradition”. Judged but no one less than Ricardo Tisci, Maria Luisa, Haider Ackermann and Patti Wilson. Does all this sound common in terms of the branche for a talented newbie? Well, it absolutely isn't. Young Mister Borde still remains as mysterious, introverted and oriented to let it all flow naturally, as on day one. Plus as talented. And men fashion has a new spokesman to expect things from.
Yatzer decided to search, find and chat with him about inspiration, aesthetics and graphic design. Yes, and fashion, too.
So, Oliver, where does all inspiration usually come from, when you are at the office, sketching?
It usually starts with a picture, drawing or a song. It's more about a certain feeling or mood. I don't sketch so much, though. I prefer to work with the fabrics and stockmen. Then, with my partners, Heath Callender and Philippe Dufour-Loriolle, we talk about it all and share ideas on which way should the collection follow.
Is there a designer, an item or a whole collection that you once were so envy of, because you would have wanted to have designed it yourself first?
It's only really happened once and it was the Comme des Garcons Womenswear AW03 Collection. It was simply the closest there is to perfection (to me).
How would you describe your aesthetic?
Avant-garde, Romantic, Sporty.
Why are there elements of female a part of your collection (SS2009)?
I like the idea of mixing roughness with delicate details.
Which are the most important things that a new designer should fulfill in order to not only survive in this branche, but also stand out?
Being honest on all levels. Emotions, creativity and business.
Do you have a favorite model / photographer / artist / designer?
Liam ONeil - J.F. Lepage - William Egglestom - David Hockney - Dries Van Noten - Rei Kawakubo.
Name the most naturally stylish person in the world, according to you, of course…!
My Grandfather was the most stylist man I've known. He was always dressed in very chic outdoorsy clothing and carried himself as proper gentleman.
Which are the 5 most important things that should for no reason be missing from a men’s wardrobe?
Good denim pants, a heavy hoody sweatershirt, a raincoat, a windbreaker and a navy button down shirt.
You grew up in Montpellier, but spent already time in Paris and London. Which city is your favorite and where is it idyllic to be designing? Is Paris still the fashion metropolis or is this nowadays a legend of the past?
Actually, I grew up in the French Alpes and a small village in the Provence, called Monteux. But of course I enjoyed living in London. It's a very inspiring city. Paris is "the" fashion metropolis in terms of the industry. You have Haute Couture and all the ateliers there. However, in terms of style and streets, I prefer NYC or London.
Is humor important in reinventing everyday clothes?
Of course it is! It is almost as important as being able to wear things in comfort.
Considering that today most designer newbies get sooner or later absorbed by giant labels, would you prefer working for a designing Titan-group, like LVMH, or alone?
We'll try to stay independent for as long as possible. With that being said, you do need to have financial backing to help develop your label. It would depend on the backers and how much freedom they were to allow us to have. Never say never, though...
Where would you -in an ideal scenario- rather be and what would you rather want to do, if you had no talent in designing?
I think I would be a Chef.
Is there something you regret having or not having done, in your career so far?
I've been lucky in my career so far. There are of course a few things one might regret, but in the end, you hope they only make you stronger.
What is nowadays the relationship between fashion and graphic design? Can designers like Takashi Murakami or Philippe Dufour-Loriolle add arty elements to clothes?
Fashion is linked to every single creative expression. Hopefully, designers like Murakami and Philippe will continue to work with the designers and keep up bringing new and fresh ideas to the clothing lines.
What drew your attention to Philippe Dufour-Loriolle?
We're old friends. I also love his work, drawings, inspiration and enjoy sharing ideas with him.
What is more important: the material used,the combination skills, the design sketch, or the inspiration?
I really enjoy working with fabrics, ribbons and buttons. Since I don't sketch so much, there seems to be more freedom of letting the ideas naturally flow by working with raw materials.
And what are your plans for the future collections and the brand in general? For instance, are you planning a women’ s collection launch? If not, why not? If yes, what is your goal?
We would love to develop accessories, possibly also open a store in Paris or NYC. I love designing for women as well, so, sooner or later we'll introduce a women's collection.
Olivier Borde A / W 2009 exclusive preview for Yatzer
Olivier Borde A / W 2008